Turkish ayran

Turkish ayran. Photo from www.ayran.com.

It’s really starting to warm up in Istanbul. Today it was in the mid-80s and tomorrow they say it’s going to be hotter. So like many Istanbullus, I’ve started to drink more and more ayran, the ancient yogurt drink, to quench my thirst.

I have to admit that the first time I tried ayran, years ago, I thought it was kind of disgusting. Thick, salty, tart—that’s ayran. But then there’s that breakthrough moment where it’s hot, you’re a little dehydrated, and you’re eating some spicy kebab dish, and so you try a glass of minty ayran and realize that it’s the only thing that can appease your thirst. It reminds me of when I was traveling across the Sahara and, in the late afternoon when we’d stop to make camp, the first thing I wanted was a cup of hot tea.

In Turkey, ayran is such a fundamental drink that you can order it at McDonalds. I don’t know if it’s true, but Sidar has told me that they sell as much ayran at fast food joints in Istanbul as Coke. (This is interesting when you think of New York City recently banning the Big Gulp soft drinks; imagine if they started serving a healthy yogurt-based drink to kids instead.)

There’s nothing too mysterious in making ayran. All it takes is yogurt, water, a pinch of salt, and, if you like, some mint, whipping it all up in a blender for less than a minute. What makes ayran is the yogurt—it should be made with whole milk with a live yogurt culture and contain no starch or gelatin or flavors. Just plain whole milk yogurt. Turkish or Greek yogurt is the best, of course, but any natural yogurt without additional sugars or additives will do. The next time you’re having a spicy meal and it’s warm outside, give it a try. I think you’ll be surprised at how delicious it can be.

Here’s a very simple recipe:

Ayran

1/2 pint plain yogurt

1/2 pint water

pinch of salt

a little fresh chopped mint (if you like)

Put everything in a blender and blend for 30 to 45 seconds. Pour in a tall glass with a few ice cubes and add a little fresh mint for garnish.

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