Icebergs Dining Room and Bar

Getting the Veuve Clicquot ready at Icebergs. Photo by David Lansing.

Here’s how Icebergs Dining Room and Bar describes itself on its web page: “Gracing the cliffs of South Bondi, embracing the panoramic views of the world’s most iconic beach, lays a unique Australian dining experience. A cherished encounter enhanced by the inspired cuisine of Icebergs Dining Room and Bar in an atmosphere of relaxed elegance. Every guest is invited to appreciate the uplifting experience afforded by such a rare location, from the expansive ocean horizons to the yellow sands of the legendary Bondi Beach….”

So definitely a little hyperbole (“the world’s most iconic beach”? “A cherished encounter”?) and they’re obviously full of themselves. But then you click on “Cuisine” and just one word pops up: Mediterranean. Wow. What happened to all the wordiness? Because the food here really is terrific.

Which is pretty amazing considering the setting (you know, gracing the cliffs of the world’s most iconic beach). Usually when you combine beach with panoramic view what you get, at best, is mediocre food. Not cuisine—food. But this was a damn fine meal. In a setting that can only be described as Down Under meets St. Tropez with lots of well-sculpted bronze bodies dressed in expensive resort wear ordering copious amounts of Veuve Clicquot. Which is probably why the receptionist, wearing her hands-free headset to better handle the onslaught of reservation requests, gave me the twice over when I walked in wearing Bonobo shorts and a turquoise polo shirt. Ah, well, not to worry, mate. It’s better than the pudgy guys wearing plaid shorts above black socks and loafers I saw walking along Bondi Beach.

So I’m thinking fish and chips or maybe a burger with a cold beer but when I open the menu I’m looking at an assortment of market fish that includes Tiger Flathead from Bruny Island, Tasmania and Blue Eye Trevalla from Browns Sea Mountain in New South Wales, as well as a wagyu rib eye, from “400 days grain fed export quality wagyu beef” for $165. Not exactly your typical beach snack hut, know what I mean?

Well, heck, who knows when I’ll get back to this rare location with its expansive ocean horizons to the yellow sands of legendary Bondi Beach (besides, I’ve already had two glasses of champagne), so I go for it: a couple of different types of local oysters for starters, followed by little gamberetti shrimp in lemon mustard mango sauce, and ox fillet, aged for 30 days.

And the verdict? It was damn good. In fact, I think I’d have to say it was a cherished encounter enhanced by inspired cuisine. And now I need a nap.