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Confessions of a Cheese Smuggler

Elaine has done me a favor. A huge favor. As the public relations account executive for a major European hotel chain, she’s managed to arrange several nights accommodation for my wife and me at a very swanky establishment in Paris, the Hôtel Lutétia. During the high season, mind you.

“Darling”—that’s Elaine talking, not my wife; Elaine is very continental and always calls me darling—“Darling, you’re a very lucky man. The Lutétia is très chic.”

Elaine is from Los Angeles but she can get away with nonsense like this because she’s married to a Parisian, though I doubt if her husband has ever said “très chic” in his life.

Anyway, I’m indebted. “Sweetheart,” I say to her (these silly endearments are a game we play), “what can I bring you back from the City of Light? Foie gras from Fauchon? A lacquered tray from Palladio? Tell me, mon petit écureuil, what do you desire?”

Elaine does a little trilling laugh over the phone that she knows drives me crazy. “Rien, rien, rien,” she says. And then she pauses. “Unless….”

Ah hah! I think. Payback time. “Yes?”

“No, nothing. It would be an inconvenience.”

“Tell me, my little ferret. What do you desire?”

“Well, I was just thinking….Perhaps some cheese?” she replies, phrasing it as a question.

That’s it? I’m going to Paris and she wants a wedge of fromage? Meaning to be generous, I suggest something special. “Pepper roll, perhaps? Cranberry-flavored Neufchâtel?”

Epoisses,” she growls. Of course, this is before I know what it is, so to me it sounds like she’s just said “I pass” with a Brooklyn accent.

I ask her to repeat herself. “Ay-pwoss,” she cries, and I have to admit it is the sexiest thing I’ve ever heard her say.

“But of course,” I say, having no idea what she’s just asked for. “A little Ay-pwoss.”

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Heading to Cuba

This week I’m traveling to Cuba. After a day in Havana, The Boys—Hardy and Fletch as well as their two sons, Cameron and Nick, and the Tarpon King, Greg G. and myself—will take the long, early morning bus ride to the southern side of the island where we will board the Halcon and motor a hundred miles off-shore to the hauntingly beautiful archipelago called the Jardines de la Reina—the Gardens of the Queen—where we will fly-fish for permit, tarpon, and bonefish. It is, of course, damn near impossible to get internet access in Havana and we are completely cut-off from any form of communication when out in the archipelago, so my tales of Cuba will have to wait until my return. In the meantime, beginning tomorrow, I will run one of my favorite stories, “Confessions of a Cheese Smuggler,” which originally ran in National Geographic Traveler and was anthologized in Best American Travel Writing.

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