White Mountain Apache Reservation rodeo

Lil’ Bit just before the start of the rodeo. Photo by David Lansing.

From Mesilla I drove to Hon-Dah, Arizona, which is midway between Show Low and Fort Apache, if you know where that is.

No, you don’t know where that is. And neither did I. Which is why it took me so long to find.

I stayed at the Hon-Dah Casino, an Indian casino like every other Indian casino I’ve ever been to, which is to say, depressing and lifeless. I know it’s about the only economic option for a lot of Native American tribes but it’s still depressing.

I was here for the rodeo on the White Mountain Apache Reservation which I’d heard showcased some of the toughest cowboys in the West. The rodeo was supposed to start around noon so I got there early, which was a mistake. Nothing was happening. Shortly around 1 things got started with the introduction of Lil’ Bit, whose sash said she was Miss Rodeo Apache. Lil’ Bit was no taller than 4 feet and seemed nervous, as did her horse. She tried to calm the horse by riding in tight circles in the wood chip-covered ground outside the bull pen.

The parade of the Rodeo Apache princesses began and maybe it was the wind kicking up dust or the ominous weather suggesting a thunder storm in the making, but one of the young Indian princesses behind Lil’ Bit was tossed from her mount, and for the next several minutes, several cowboys attempted to rope the bucking, riderless horse before he caused any more panic in the ring. Eventually someone grabbed ahold of his reins and led him back to his rider.

A recording of the national anthem was played over a tinny speaker. All the cowboys took off their hats. There was a scattering of applause. The rodeo had begun.